Ported VS Sealed is like asking what the best sports car is. There is no “right” answer, it just depends on your priorities. The Nissan GTR, Ferrari F430, Lexus LFA, and Bugatti Veyron all offer unique strengths and weaknesses. Which is best? That’s hard to quantify definitively.
Sealed Vs Ported presents a similar challenge, there are strengths and trade offs with each design. Here are my thoughts on the issue in hopes that it will help you decide which is right for you. Even though I may prefer one, my impression may help you decide that you really want the other.
SVS was excited to send out their sealed 12″ SB-2000’s for my next review after I was finished reviewing the ported 10″ PB-1000’s. Sealed subs have a lot of benefits, such as deeper in room extension in medium and small rooms (In other words, normal rooms. Large = auditorium), faster transient response, and a smaller footprint. But would I be a convert? You might be surprised…
Keep in mind that I’m a layperson. Aside from this project, I have no audio industry background, and I’m still learning. I’m a consumer with my own personal “consumer” desires, and apparently a few limitations that influence my decisions. While I’d love to be the guy with the perfect eardrums, it’s just not the case, so keep this in mind for your own needs. If you are into purist listening, your desires could easily diverge from mine.
Some basic differences are the ways room gain affects the response of each style. At least in my room, the response of the sealed subs goes deeper than the rated response. So the sealed response is rated for 19 hertz, but it goes down to 10-11 hertz in my room. For those interested in purist listening and ultra flat response, the sealed SB-2000 has a pretty sexy curve.
As you can see from the graph, the sealed sub (blue line) delivers well below the rated response, as SVS has shaped that curve with their DSP to give a nice flat response that drops off around 11 hertz in my room. I can’t hear below 17 hertz or so.
Ported subs do not do this. The factory ratings are pretty reliable in terms of depth limits. Any ported subs will be pretty quiet under their factory rating, but a sealed sub will likely go deeper. People have asked me how I can disqualify a ported sub so easily, but it’s pretty simple. If a ported sub is rated for 25 hertz, it’s probably not going to reach 23 hertz with any meaning, while a sealed sub rated for 25 hertz could potentially hit 20 hertz or deeper. This tends to complicate the discussion.
See the graph below to get an idea of the deficiencies common in more typical ported subwoofers. Typical subs are “good” down to about 40 hertz, and when you spend a little more, down to about 30 hertz. The “Typical” sub in the graph (Purple line) was reliably rated for 28 hertz, but started to really fall off at about 29 hertz.
The “Typical” ported subwoofer on the graph is not a cheap sub. It is a well-known name that retailed for $500, but given it’s age I’m not going to disclose the model. It’s not really important anyway, the focus here is on subs that perform comfortably under 30 hertz.
Unless a ported subwoofer has a DSP, the shape of the graph above will likely be pretty typical for your average ported sub. The “Typical” sub in the graph actually does better than most typical subs, but compared to any sub on The List, it’s pretty shallow. The difference in room is undeniable.
The whole crux of this site is about meaningful depth. Power and thunder, yet well-behaved in the process, so the sealed seems like the natural choice. Many enthusiasts will prefer the quicker transient response for music. I looked forward to trying the sealed especially after having read the Sealed vs Ported on the SVS site.
I can say that the SVS write-up is spot on. In a dual configuration there is plenty of output in my acoustically odd 24×24 mixed use room, though I listen at sane levels. For crazy loudness, ported are definitely recommended, or the SB13 Ultras. The graph does match up to the graph on SVS site (being flat below the rated response), understanding that rooms will cause the graphs to vary a bit. An anechoic graph will typically be smoother and flatter than what your room will produce, that’s almost a universal truth.
Reference vs Preference.
The SB-2000’s are great for those who want a purist 2.2 stereo setup, especially if flat response is your goal. I use the term purist instead of audiophile, because at the core definition, we are all audiophiles. We all want good sound, it’s just a question of sanity, economics, and personal flavor. My hopes are that the snooty attitudes that turn so many off to the industry will become a thing of the past, or at least get drowned out by normal people who just want to have fun.
The PB-1000 is what some would call a little “bottom heavy”. As it goes deeper, it gets louder in my room. The effect is not drastic, and I find it to be quite nice. This gives the impression of “bigger” sound.
Here’s the thing, apparently I really, really like a bottom heavy sub. I suspect it’s because deeper sound is a little harder to hear. Even though the sealed SB-2000’s go deeper, the ported PB-1000’s “sound deeper” because the room gain pronounces depth more. I can’t be the only one, based on the popularity of ported SVS subs. They are truly next level.
For sure, quality ported subs dominate cinema. The sealed SB-2000’s would trounce most “typical” ported subs in cinema, but the ported PB-1000’s and PB-2000’s have more slam when called for, and the depth is more emphasized than with the SB-2000’s.
But here is where I might diverge from the average enthusiast. I like the sound of the ported PB-1000 better than the sealed SB-2000 for music. Did your head just explode? That’s completely against the grain, and I urge you to be skeptical of my opinion.
There are 2 reasons for this, the first being that I like the more “pronounced” depth provided by the PB-1000’s and PB-2000’s. Getting a little louder as it goes deeper is my preference, and it’s a drastic departure from typical ported subs. This can be overcome with the sealed SB-2000’s with some form of external sub EQ, like a Mini DSP 2X4. The sealed SB 13 Ultra has an option like this built-in, although I haven’t heard it yet.
If you like a bottom heavy curve too, but you already have SB-2000’s, you can use the Mini DSP 2×4 to adjust the response. Fair warning, it does have a learning curve, and you need a good microphone like a UMIK-1 and something like Room EQ Wizard (free, but consider a donation to the guy who made it) to make it all happen. The same is true if you have a ported sub and like your response flatter. I felt no need to alter the SVS ported subs, but I could see the value in shaving the high end just a little on the SB-2000’s to match my own personal tastes.
The other reason I prefer a ported sub is pretty specific to me. I have sensitive ears. Not “I can hear a cricket sneeze 2 blocks away” kind of sensitive, but more of an “I can’t handle loud venues” kind of sensitive. My ears fatigue easily. I have a hard time going to concerts. Keep that in mind, as this is not a very common issue as far as I have seen.
My ears are a little fatigued from the sealed subs, though they did feel better after breaking in (or maybe I just got used to it?). The reality is that any sealed sub would likely produce the same result. I’ve heard this in box stores, but never long enough to pin it down. So it’s not an SVS characteristic specifically, it’s a sealed subwoofer characteristic. If you like sealed subs, the SB-2000’s make a LOT of sense. They sound beautiful, and they do indeed offer a purist sound.
Frankly, I find ported subs slightly more “comfortable” to listen to at higher volumes. I might have missed it had I not just heard the PB-1000’s, and then followed up by the PB-2000’s. I was never able to pin it down, but sealed subs never got me excited. Now that I have been able to identify what it is, it makes sense.
I found passive radiators more comfortable too, but I haven’t heard one I truly like, and at this point I couldn’t recommend them. However, the pressure issue is similar to a ported sub, as there is a degree of pressure relief. When the main driver moves out, the passive radiator moves in, thus keeping the pressure change to a minimum. With a sealed sub, there is no such relief. Again, this is all unproven theory on my part, and I could be completely wrong, but it makes sense to me.
My ears are overly sensitive. I identify as mild Asperger’s (never tested officially for autism, but it adds up) so that may have a LOT to do with it. The Fibromyalgia may also play a role here too. Normal ears probably won’t notice it much, if at all, and a LOT of people prefer sealed.
See the decision chart below to see which suites your needs better:
That pressure theory is purely speculation. This issue is pretty specific to me, but it brings me to the following recommendation: If you have sensitive ears in the house, like autistic ears, migraines, or dogs and cats, you may want to consider ported subs. I happen to find them more comfortable, but the difference might be difficult to perceive for most. That said, an autistic child or otherwise sensitive ears in the home would likely appreciate the consideration.
Certainly, I don’t think sealed subs should be avoided, especially if they suite your needs and desires.
I’ve come across some surprises with this project, and this is certainly up there. I fully expected to be a sealed subwoofer convert, based on everything I’ve read, and the comments I have received. Many enthusiasts prefer the characteristics of a sealed sub, and I absolutely get it.
Maybe I’m a little unsophisticated. Theoretically, I could retire to the study with a good whiskey to discuss world affairs in a chair with buttery soft leather. Something like hanging out with this distinguished gentleman. I imagine the conversation would be epic.
I could just as easily head to the garage with a good beer and shoot some pool with the guys. Both sound great to me, but shooting pool just sounds like a little more fun. No offense to Mr. Offerman or sealed subwoofers, both are class acts and have my respect and admiration.
I definitely see the appeal of both. I enjoy both, but I definitely prefer ported subwoofers at the end of the day. Which do you prefer? Let me know in the comments below.
Ryan B.
I share your experience with sealed subwoofers and ear fatigue. So nice to read that I’m not alone, or crazy. 🙂
Imagine how I felt posting this article! I’ve seen some threads where people were experiencing ear fatigue with really expensive subwoofers, and they were sealed subs, but the conclusion was never drawn. Hopefully this will save some people the trouble if they have sensitive ears. Thanks for stopping by!
I agree with sealed subs and ear fatigue. I just bought an SVS SB-2000 for 2 channel listening paired up with my magnepan 1.7s and I don’t like it so it’s going back. Too boomy, not muscial, it did not blend well at all with the magnepans…I have to say that I have a little Energy EWS-8 subwoofer and oddly enough it sounds spectacular with the 1.7s. When I first powered up the SB-2000 and made some adjustments I was very disappointed. I moved it around and continued to make adjustments but it still have that fatiguing boomy single frequency output.
You may be dealing with a standing wave at a lower frequency than you are used to, which is best resolved with 2 subs. I’ve heard the SB-2000’s and know for certain they do great with music. They shouldn’t be boomy at all. You may want to check with SVS to troubleshoot if the ideas below don’t resolve it.
What crossover are you running, what is the gain set at for the subwoofer, and what is the subwoofer gain on your AVR? What kind of room correction are you running? Try setting the crossover to 80 hertz or higher, with the Magnapans (along with anything else) set as small, and adjust the subwoofer level again, setting the sub gain at 50%, and turn the subwoofer trim down on the AVR, slowly turning it up until the music seems filled in. (Norah Jones’ “Heart of Mine” works pretty good for this)
I wouldn’t be surprised if your crossover was too low (40-60 hertz) and the sub output was too high, which could make the sub seem overdone and unbalanced, coming on too strong only when it gets deep. Just a guess. If an Energy 8″ is sounding better, something is definitely wrong! Your perception could also be different with a good sub. You may be trying to adjust the sub based on a flawed response curve typical of most subs.
Ryan: great site! I also watched one of your YouTube videos.
Before I “pull the Plug” on an ELAC S10EQ Debut SerieS subwoofer, I was wondering if I can get your advice.
This is for a 2-channel setup only, with a Rotel receiver RSX-1065 and a pair of ELAC Uni-fi UB5 bookshelf speakers.
It is in my basement, an L shaped room 25′ by 20′, and 8′ ceilings. My music is mostly metal.
I am trying to keep the price at $500. Those SVS PB1000 or SB1000 look good. I have a REL for my HT setup (old one), but the REL prices are so high now.
Any advice for me?
Thanks!
Thank you!
Well, I can tell you that music like Metallica absolutely rocks on SVS subs! Whisky in the Jar, The God that Failed, Nothing Else Matters, etc.. all sound amazing. My biggest piece of advice is to go matched dual. You’ll get a much better experience. If you went sealed, I’d stick with SB-2000’s over the SB-1000, more power and sealed subs are less efficient. I would have pointed you to the SB-12 NSD on Amazon but they only have 1 left and you really want matched duals.
PB-1000’s will have a deeper impression than the sealed, even though the sealed will go deeper. I find the ported more comfortable myself, less ear fatigue, but the sealed are tighter. Dual PB-1000’s will fill up your room without question, and they are what I would go with personally. You’ll probably get 2 more for your HT. Impressive subs. I’d run your Elac UB5’s as Small at about 80-90 hertz with the PB-1000’s, or 60-80 hertz with the sealed.
Thanks Ryan!
I went ahead and ordered the SB-12 NSD from Electronics Expo through Amazon. At $400 and no tax seemed like a no brainer for me. Older version of the SB-2000 but half the price. I understand lesser / older design and 100 watts less power.
Thanks again for your advice and good work in your site. I will come back once I get it if I have questions 😉
Congratulations! That’s a great sub, and a steal!
Thanks Ryan.
I don’t remember from your article and videos, do you have a preference as to what connection method you like for stereo 2-channel? Usual LFE or speaker / high level? Thanks again
Generally LFE is the way to go, just be sure to set your speakers to Small, even if they’re massive.
If i want a room shaking sub which is better a ported or a sealed?
Ported.
Hey, nice topic, greatly explaining the differences. Being the low budget person I am a proud owner of a pair of Pioneer CS7070s up front, a pair of Pio CS5070s at the back and a Magnat Supreme 301A ported sub, hooked to a Denon AVR X520 5.2 AV amp… now, i have been considering (again, budget restrictions) getting another ported Supreme 301 or 302, but do you think the ups and downs could be “equalled” if one sub is ported, the other is closed? Thanks 🙂
I sure do wish you had done a chart showing the frequency response differences between the Sealed SB-2000 (blue) vs Ported PB-2000 (red). I think it would be more of a comparing apples to apples sort of thing
Makes good sense, I just didn’t have access to the PB-2000’s at the time.
Thanks! Some people like to mix and match subwoofers, but I’ve never had good luck with it. To me, mixed subs sound better than a single, but not as well composed as matched set. My personal preference is to keep the subwoofers identical. That would include ported and sealed, since they have different behaviors/tendencies.
advice taken, thanks 🙂
Let me first start out by saying that I really enjoy this site and the “you tubes”. I have been doing a lot of research the last few weeks because I want to get some good subs into my home theater system. I intend to end up with 3 or 4. I am currently running one huge 15″ RCF sub to witch I have never really been happy with. If you are talking boomy, you are talking about this sub. And it is only rated to go down to 40 hz.
I’m going to end up with 3 or 4 subs, so I don’t think I really have to go big. I’m looking at either the SB-1000 or the PB-1000. I listen to music and watch movies about 50/50. When I listen to music, I like the bass to be really tight. I have a 3 piece system in my bedroom that has really tight bass and I love it. One of the things that I’ve noticed with my tight 3 piece system (with 6.5″ sub) is that when you hear a bass guitar riff, you can actually hear the different individual notes and not just a blur of low frequency sound. And by the way’ I was curious this morning as to weather or not my sub in my 3 piece system was sealed or ported. I assumed that the music sounded so good that it had to be sealed, nope, vent port on back bottom side.
I am also looking at HSU subs. Now HSU subs are incorporating optional “port plugs” into their subs, along with other adjustments related to their ports and port plugs. From my understanding, installing port plugs into the port on a sub will tighten up the sound and make it more for music. Here is my question. I like the SVS subs but don’t know witch one too choose, SB or PB, since I do music and movies equally. Size and the difference in the cost are not major concerns. I would like real tight bass when i’m listening to music and real loud boomy explosions when I watch a movie. My question….. Would this work for me? Getting the PB-1000 for my movies and when I want to listen to music, plug the port.
Please comment.
Thanks
Good article. I am wondering, typical subwoofer starts at 30 hz. Human ear can listen from 20 hz. Does it make significant difference? worth spending extra money for the sub that starts from 20?
My ears are sensitive too. I am going to get headache. I need to see if ported helps.
The difference between regular subs and deep bass subs was significant enough for me to build a website and YouTube channel about it! I really do think it’s game changing.
I also think running duals helps with ear fatigue too, which is hard to explain, but the most comfortable configuration for me is dual ported subwoofers. A single ported sub is more uncomfortable than duals.
And it’s not just getting that extra 10 hertz from 20-30 hertz, it’s the whole response profile. Everything sounds more even, deeper, and more realistic. It actually takes a little getting used to, but once most people hear (what I consider to be) “correct” bass, it’s REALLY hard to go back.
You can try the PB-1000’s or PB-2000’s (duals, whatever budget allows) and give it a few weeks of listening to familiar content. You can run more bass than usual because the response is so flat. Then, if you don’t find it worth it, SVS is great about returns. A lot of people take advantage of the 1 year trade up, and go to PB-4000’s or PB-16 Ultras. Good bass is very addictive that way, and probably one of the most exciting upgrades you can make in home theater.
If you’re inclined to support my page and channel, you can follow these links: PB-1000 PB-2000
Sorry for taking so long to get back, I’m operating slowly lately. While SVS does have subs that are designed to have their ports plugged, the PB-1000, PB-2000, and PC-2000 are NOT designed to be run with ports plugged. They are only designed for one configuration, and plugging the port can cause damage.
That said, the PB-2000’s are my favorite sub to recommend, and the PB-1000’s are a very close second. The PB-16 Ultra is the best bass I’ve ever heard, but that’s not as easily attainable.
From what you’re telling me, I’d go with the PB-1000’s. If you didn’t like movies at all, and a strong preference for sealed, then the sealed might make more sense, but the PB-1000’s will be more exciting, and I love how they handle music. I’m 70% music myself, and love what deep bass does for music. Same for the PB-2000’s. I’ve never been inclined to use port plugs with SVS subs, no need. They sound plenty deep as it is, and I’m not as fond of the sealed configuration.
If you’re inclined to support the channel and the site, please follow this link: PB-1000’s
Again, sorry for taking so long to get back, summer heat really slows me down.
Hi there,
what would be the outcome of running PB1000 with an SB1000 as a dual system, would this give slightly greater overall range, OR be just a rable of mixed up garble ???
I personally like to keep the subs matched. Some swear by mixing, but I’ve only ever had trouble with it.
Thanks for taking the time to reply, i have decide to go with 2 x SVS PB-2000 Subs, will finish setting up couple days time, think they will be brilliant.
Hi Ryan, thanks for taking the time to reply, i have listened to an SVS PB-1000 and PB-2000, both good, PB-2000 better of the two i thought.
Have now decided to go with two x SVS PB-2000 subs, think they will be awesome together.
Just setup the second SVS PB2000 as a dual, still need bit of tweeking over next week or so, but already the difference in the sound is unmistakable and totally recommend dual subs.
Love your site, lots more learning for me to do from reading through your articles.
Thanks for replying and the recommendations.
The PB-1000’s offer a lot of bass for the money, but I prefer the PB-2000’s as well.
Thank you! You might want to check out my Bass Hack Series on YouTube to get the most out of everything.
They will be nice!
Great review. Definitely make sense! Thanks a lot…we know you have reviewed all the ported subwoofer from SVS, however if time permits we would also like to know your detailed review on SB4000 and SB16 ultra.
Hi Ryan – Recently found your site and it’s wonderful. I started with one SVS SB-2000 a year ago – replacing a Yamaha YST-SW105. I chose SB-2000 for bland of music and theater and cost. It sits in a ~2,720 CF media room (11’Hx13’Wx19’L) corner. The bass is weak and I didn’t do the crawl to maximize deep bass. Then I got the 2nd SB-2000 a couple of months ago. OMG – what a huge difference! My sofa was fiercely vibrating. QED# – duals are a must for bass heads like us!
Okay, next challenge. I have a living room space ~6,530 CF (23’Wx24’Lx12’H). It is openly connected to the kitchen space (23’Wx12’Lx12’H) which is and extra ~3,270 CF. Now that is about ~9,800 CF total.
Would dual PB-2000 be able to handle this size adequately? 2 weeks ago, I saw 1 PB12-NSD on sale at SVS Outlet for $450! I was thinking seriously for a set of those duals. Good price at ~$900 for a set of duals if a second one ever comes around. But there will be very little headroom for such a huge space. I wonder if I should just gamble and wait for Black Friday deals. Going beyond PB-2000 will break my bank (since I can’t justify already having a pair of SB-2000’s with my CFO at home).
Thoughts?
Thanks so much,
David
Hi David,
Just so happens that the Labor day sale is happening right now! Like a few hours ago! The PB-2000’s are on sale, but there are only a few left, they are selling out pretty fast, they had 9 pages of sale items this morning, down to 6 pages now, so 1/3 sold out already. Here is the link: Labor Day 2019
Very good chance they will be gone by the end of the day, so grab them while you can! The PB-2000’s will do a good job, use the gain hack from my bass hack series to get the most out of them and the SB-2000’s. The 1 year trade up still applies, so if you get the approval, the PB-3000’s are outstanding, nearly the same impact as the PB-4000’s. Good luck!!
Ryan
I would love to, but I can’t tolerate sealed subs due to an old head injury that still causes sound and light sensitivity. Ported are totally comfortable, sealed causes an uncomfortable pressure sensation.
I love my svs sb12 nsd sub