Short Answer
Buy two PB-2000 Pro's before you buy a bigger single subwoofer. That's been my go-to recommendation for years.
- Tighter budget: two PB-1000 Pro's
- Goldilocks: dual PB-3000 R|Evolutions
- Money no object: dual PB-17 Ultra R|Evolutions, the best bass I've ever heard
Two matched deep bass subwoofers beat one every time. That matters more than which model you land on.
Best Subwoofers for Home Theater AND Music
Everyone wants better bass, whether they realize it or not. For music and home theater, true, deep bass is VITAL for genuine life like audio quality. These are the best subwoofers for both, despite popular opinions.
My listening profile is 75% music, 25% movies. I judge quality through curated music and impact through curated reference movie scenes. Even people who dismiss deep bass, like two-channel purists, or a mother-in-law who couldn't care less, are quickly "converted" once they hear the difference with everything dialed in properly.
The hard part is separating what you imagine deep bass will be from what it actually is. The end result is always better than expected, and it's always been the missing piece in most systems. From blockbuster movies to Diana Krall, nearly everything sounds better when you can actually hear ALL of the bass.
It's Not About Loudness
Almost any typical, run-of-the-mill sub can be loud. This is about Depth of Presentation, truly sounding deep, not just playing loud. It's hard to describe. You'll only understand it once you hear it. Granted, I do like loud listening on occasion, and the subs I recommend have NO ISSUES getting rowdy.
Your local movie theater rarely dips below 40 hertz with any meaningful impact. Shamefully shallow. The subs on this list effortlessly drop to 14 hertz in-room, below what you can humanly hear, and it's a strong, clean, meaningful, enjoyable, and satisfying output. Audibly bottomless.
Shallow bass subwoofers (sometimes described as “musical”) might have bigger drivers, more wattage, and higher Max SPL. That’s exactly the case in this graph! You can only turn up a subwoofer so much before it sounds boomy and overbearing.
With deep bass subs, you can turn them up a LOT more before that happens. The result is a LOT more usable/audible bass between 17-65 hertz, as you can see in the graph.
THIS is the sound you have been looking for! You hear content that is true, rather than having the deeper bass “lopped off” by a shallow subwoofer.
**Deep bass subs REMOVE THE DEPTH RESTRICTIONS imposed by shallow subs.**
More than 90% of all 10"–18"+ subs, regardless of wattage, rated frequency response, or price, are too shallow sounding, both in extension and in Depth of Presentation. Your hearing naturally fades as frequencies get deeper, and most subwoofers simply don't produce enough of that deep content to compensate. It's definitely audible, if the subwoofer can actually deliver it.
Good bass isn't about what your neighbors can hear, it's about what YOU can hear.
Subwoofer Size and Room Size
If you have an extra-large room (over 600 sq ft), you may need to look at the bigger subs. Large rooms and smaller rooms have no such limitation on this list, so long as you go dual.
People worry about going "too big" for a small room. Here's the truth: with a single subwoofer, anything will sound too big, because a small room amplifies problems.
Going dual, matched, with good room correction, resolves this. It's counterintuitive, but it's measurable, and I've proven it out in several of my own small rooms. One sub sounds bloated, with Swiss Cheese Bass and overbearing peaks. Dual matched subs sound tight, balanced, and delightfully clean once dialed in.
You can always turn a sub down, and it should always be volume-matched (integrated) to your main speakers regardless of room size. Big subs like these don't mean overpowering "boom boom." They mean articulate, bottomless sound reproduction, whether that's Jurassic Park, Hacksaw Ridge, The Accountant, or my personal favorite, Cosmos.
Even cartoons can sound better! Family Guy and American Dad come to mind, where explosions in scenes have taken me by surprise. Going down this path, you WILL uncover unexpected bass.
With any subwoofer on this list, in matching dual configuration, there is no such thing as overkill. Seriously.
Not because I want everything loud, loud, loud. I have an unfortunate hearing sensitivity from chronic Post Concussion Syndrome, so I genuinely can't tolerate anything audibly offensive, it can cause real, physical nerve pain.
I have zero problem cranking music and feeling deep bass impact my body. Where I run into trouble is poor quality, timing, or balance issues. That's when loudness turns into pain, not the volume itself.
The term "stuck a nerve" feels literal, and "nails on a chalkboard" with a horrific hangover is the best way I can describe it. It's like I can feel it up my spine.
My TBI happened in 2001, I fell out of my semi truck in the middle of the night, and I was knocked out for over 45 minutes before being discovered. Prior to having good bass, the best I could manage was 30 minutes of music. I've been chasing the audio dragon since 1989, so that was a huge loss.
With proper bass, I can listen literally all day, no problem. It's wild, but hypersensitivity to sound, sight, touch, smell, and taste is a real issue. A scented candle store is brutal.
To be certain, this isn't a brag, my hearing is fragile rather than crazy good. It has been mildly beneficial for this context, but I'd trade it all to feel normal again.
The Theater in the Motorhome
I've packed a serious amount of bass into my portable home theater, a 40-foot diesel pusher motorhome: PB-1000 Pro's, PB-2000 Pro's, PB-3000's, up to dual PB-4000's, and even a single VTF-15, just to see how each would sound.
The single VTF-15 went in first because it was available, and I thought I'd made a massive mistake; it was bad. Bloated swiss cheese bass, exactly what everyone warns you about in a small room. My idea looked like it was a very expensive mistake. I even considered bass traps for the first time ever.
Once I had dual matched subs in there, I was relieved and beyond thrilled. BTW, that's not a brand thing.
If I'd had dual VTF-15's instead of a single PB-4000, the dual VTF-15's would have been better, because only dual matched subs can truly fix the problems. Putting in the Denon X6200, with upgraded room correction, refined it even more over the Denon X-2000 with standard room correction.
The motorhome was a Rexhall Rose Air, chosen for its stout, welded-steel-cage construction on a Spartan bus chassis. The craziest part isn't just the absurdity of the project, it's that the motorhome sounded better than any house theater I've ever put together!
Lots of textiles, 1 easily resolved rattle. Audibly clean and clear. I definitely didn't expect that, and that wouldn't be the case for a budget "stick and tin" travel trailer.
It's all about how you set it up, so everything sounds like it was designed to work together. From the smallest subwoofer to the biggest, they'll all sound "proper" once dialed in, which I show you how to do on my YouTube channel.
These subs should do as they're told, no more, no less. Thrilling, satisfying, but not intrusive. You can run them too loud, sure, but integrated properly they stay true to the content while faithfully obeying your volume dial.
The Subwoofers
These subs are known for great bass, a drastic departure from more commonly known names that inflate their numbers on paper, and talk big game in the marketing, only to lose composure and authority at lower levels, where only a subwoofer can deliver.
Every "Verified" sub plays with real authority down to 20 hertz, not just making "measurable noise" at that depth.
In my opinion, a subwoofer isn't a quality subwoofer unless it can play the entire humanly audible bass spectrum, down to just under 20 hertz, with clear, low-distortion authority. Impeccable manners are a must, and a lot more rare than you'd think.
I haven't listened to every sub out there, so only subs labeled VERIFIED are ones I can personally vouch for. Unverified subs are a best guess, until I can review them and confirm, or eliminate as their performance dictates.
I also weigh the full ownership experience, not just performance. Some subs I avoid due to sound quality. Others I hesitate to fully recommend without caveat, because of customer service or return-shipping policies that can cost you hundreds of dollars if you're not happy.
Some return policies are considerably worse than the initial glance would imply. READ THE FINE PRINT!
If you're taking a leap of faith on a product you've never heard, return policy matters. I don't want a bad recommendation to cost you hundreds in restocking or shipping fees, on top of buyer's remorse.
These are subs I'd buy myself, at each budget level, and be perfectly happy to use them indefinitely.
Go Dual. Keep Them Matched.
This is the single most important piece of advice on this entire page: going dual is a much bigger priority than buying the biggest single subwoofer you can afford.
If you're going to invest in this hobby at all, especially at this level, why not do it right? Splitting your budget across two matched deep bass subs will always outperform one larger single sub at the same price, dual PB-3000's will beat a SINGLE PB-17 Ultra, every time.
I'd consider it a monumental mistake to buy ANY SINGLE subwoofer on this list to run alone.
You'll need a genuinely large room to strain any of these at normal listening levels, louder than you'd expect with plenty of oomph, but not ear-damaging or foundation-crumbling. Enjoyable.
If you want serious power, more authority, explosiveness, and a truly convincing thunderstorm in your room, go with dual PB-3000 R|Evolutions or dual PB-17 Ultra R's.
This list evolves as I test more subwoofers. Generally, ported subs produce greater output and depth of presentation than sealed subs at the same price, in my opinion. Plenty of people prefer sealed, and I respect that. See my Ported vs. Sealed write-up for more.
I also find ported subs far more comfortable to listen to, and recommend them over sealed for sensitive ears: headaches, general sound sensitivity, autism spectrum, Post Concussion Syndrome, TBI, and pets. (Update: sealed subs can be made MUCH more comfortable by staggering timing, set one sub at 4 feet more than your room correction value, and the other at 6 feet more.)
Ported subs also have a deeper sound out of the box, and I still prefer the sound regardless of comfort.
SVS
Subwoofer101 is the world's first SVS affiliate. I asked SVS to start an affiliate program ten years ago, so I'd have a way to support my content. I'm financially blue-collar, and given my health, producing content isn't easy.
My "battery" is always well under 15%, so I have to make careful choices. Most of the time, just getting through the day is fully depleting. When I do have reserves, I choose between enjoying life and producing content. Without question, you get a better version of me than my family and friends do.
SVS has been the most supportive of my message about deep bass, which makes sense; they produce what most people "in the know" consider the gold standard of subwoofers. They have also been a LOT more accommodating and understanding about my health than I could ever reasonably expect.
Their customer service is legendary, they'll help you troubleshoot gear they don't even make, like your Blu-ray player or AVR/amplifier, for free, even if you're not a customer.
Rather than "man cave only" subwoofers, they build subs that look like they belong in multi-use living and family rooms too.
Every sub on this list is deep sounding, or it wouldn't be here, but SVS consistently has the deepest sound and depth of presentation out of the box, regardless of size or price. It's their signature, and that ultimately means you can have more bass overall, without sounding overdone.
To be clear: SVS is not a "sponsor." They don't pay me for content, and they don't tell me what to say. This website existed before I ever reached out. I'm free to promote any company or product I want, including every competitor, and I actively search for competitors to add to this list.
Affiliate commissions are what keep this website online, no matter which product it is, at zero added cost to you. I'm a one-person show, so everything helps.
Ordering Factory Direct through my links ensures the full SVS Bill of Rights: a 45-day return period, 1-year trade-up, and other benefits dealers may not offer.
PB-1000 (Discontinued, replaced by PB-1000 Pro)
($) The original PB-1000 was the first SVS subwoofer I ever heard. The jump in depth compared to the 12" and 15" subs I'd heard before was shocking and satisfying.
Caveat-the 10" driver tapered off a little sooner at the lowest end (21-23hertz) than the PB-2000 (14 hertz), but you still got a much deeper sound overall than typical.
You can also check the SVS Outlet for gently used units with the same Bill of Rights and warranty as new (free shipping, free returns, 1-year trade-up).
PB-1000 Pro — Smartest Buy in Bass
Click Here To Order Factory Direct
Best on a budget. The pair that gets you into the game, at the most economical price point, and allows you to trade up within a year.
($) VERIFIED! A 12" ported subwoofer. Highly recommended for duals over a larger single, the most compact and affordable ported sub on this list that I can fully recommend. There is no caveat, these are audibly bottomless, going deeper than the original.
Isolation is highly recommended for wood sub-floors. It earns "Smartest Buy in Bass" through economics, performance, and the 1-year trade-up: start here, trade up within a year, and the clock restarts with every trade. You can work your way all the way to dual PB-17 Ultra R's over several years, getting full credit for what you paid, minus shipping.
Free shipping, 45 days to listen, with free returns on factory direct purchases.
PB-2000 Pro
Click Here To Order Factory Direct
Best for most rooms and situations. My go-to recommendation.
($$) VERIFIED. A 12" ported subwoofer, 550 watts RMS, 1,500+ peak. My favorite for value, size, and full-range bass performance down to 14 hertz measured in my own room. Bottomless.
These are what I chose for the motorhome theater, shocking performance, explosiveness, composure, and depth, in a genuinely attainable package.
The PB-3000 R|Evolution and PB-17 Ultra are more explosive, but if those are out of reach, or you're eyeing a single sub, split your budget for a dual PB-2000 Pro setup instead. Dual matching subwoofers are NOT a luxury audiophile thing, it's how the physics of bass works. Isolation recommended for wood sub-floors.
PB-3000 R|Evolution
(Click Here To Order Factory Direct)
Best premium pick for the price and size.
($$$) VERIFIED. A 13" ported subwoofer, 1,200 watts RMS, 4,000+ watts peak, with the updated SVS app control. My favorite premium subwoofer for value, size, full-range performance, and incredible impact. Isolation recommended for wood sub-floors.
It's only about an inch bigger on each side than the PB-2000 Pro, yet performs much closer to the PB-4000 in raw impact and explosiveness.
Aside from the PB-17 Ultra, this is the most surprising subwoofer I've reviewed, and the updated version keeps that going. The Split-Wind voice coil isn't just cool tech, it makes this sub sound bigger and more powerful than it is. This is my Goldilocks pick, and my favorite subwoofer overall.
PB-4000 (Discontinued, replaced by PB-5000)
($$$$) VERIFIED. A 13.5" variable-ported subwoofer, 1,200 watts RMS, 4,200 watts peak. True 13 hertz performance in-room, remote control, full smartphone app. Ultra-low distortion, ultra-high output. Isolation highly recommended for wood sub-floors. Measure before ordering, it's very large and very heavy (153.2 lbs), truck-freight shipped on a pallet. Realism, impact, and explosiveness are off the charts.
My only hesitation recommending the PB-4000 was always the PB-3000, they're so close I couldn't tell them apart with my eyes closed, and the PB-3000 is smaller, lighter, and less expensive. The PB-4000 does offer a piano finish, front display, and the legacy of its predecessor, the PB-13 Ultra. Like the PB-3000, its performance was only bested by the PB-16 Ultra and PB-17 Ultra R, and the PB-5000 should best it too.
PB-5000 R|Evolution
($$$$) A 15" variable-ported subwoofer, 2,000 watts RMS, 5,000+ watts peak. True 13 hertz performance in-room, full smartphone app. Ultra-low distortion, ultra-high output. Isolation highly recommended for wood sub-floors. Measure where you plan to put them before ordering, it's very large and very heavy (153.9 lbs), truck-freight shipped on a pallet. Realism, impact, and explosiveness are off the charts. Not verified yet, but I'm confident it's a true premium SVS subwoofer.
PB-16 Ultra (Retired, replaced by PB-17 Ultra R|Evolution)
($$$$) VERIFIED. A 16" variable-ported subwoofer, the previous SVS flagship: 1,500 watts RMS, 5,000 watts peak, 8" voice coil. Ultra-low distortion, incredible explosiveness. This was my "money no object" subwoofer, and the best bass I'd heard until the PB-17 Ultra R.
Isolation highly recommended for wood sub-floors. It's very large and very heavy (175 lbs), truck-freight shipped on a pallet, still with free shipping and free returns. Realism, impact, and explosiveness were the best I'd heard, and a great spleen massage while remaining 100% comfortable. Truly incredible.
PB-17 Ultra R|Evolution
(Click Here to Order Factory Direct)
Best if money is no object. The best I've heard, full stop.
($$$$) VERIFIED. EASILY the best subwoofer I've heard. The PB-16 was hard to beat, but the 17 did it. What stood out most, surprisingly, was the music performance. Theater performance improving as you go up the SVS line is expected, but the music performance here is phenomenal.
It's a common belief that sealed subs are better for music. I disagree. Sorry not sorry. I went back and forth between sealed and ported modes, room correction, port tuning, even adjusted the PEQs to mimic a ported response for extra depth.
Out of the box, ported SVS subs still have a deeper sound than their sealed subs, and it showed. As one viewer put it, sealed sounds more "restricted," while ported is simply effortless and unleashed.
The PB-17 is the most true-to-content subwoofer for music I've ever heard. You can spend double, triple, or more elsewhere, and still not get bass this true to real life. If you want the best possible subwoofer for music or movies, I genuinely don't think you can do better than this SVS flagship.
You can get bigger or more expensive, but if it's zero-compromise quality you're after, a matched pair of these is what I'd recommend without hesitation. Just know you can run more gain than you might expect.
PC-2000 Pro
(Click Here To Order Factory Direct)
($$) Verified! 12" Ported Cylinder sub, comes with the Soundpath Subwoofer Isolation System, same internals as the PB-2000 Pro. Down firing subwoofers are OK for concrete, but might not be ideal for wood sub-floors. The Isolation System helps for wood floors (comes stock, no need to order more isolation).
Monoprice
I've been a Monoprice affiliate longer than an SVS one, long before their Monolith subs even existed, but despite several attempts I was never able to get a response to review them.
At their customer service line's recommendation, I bought a pair of Monolith 15's myself, listened through the 30-day return window, and sent them back. Shipping to me was free; return shipping is the customer's responsibility and varies by distance from their California facility.
For two Monolith 15's (266 lbs total, palletized), my return freight was over $300 for under 500 miles, and could exceed $800 from the East Coast from information I could gather at the time.
I later learned that if your original order had free shipping, those original shipping charges get deducted from your refund on a buyer's-remorse return, so you effectively pay shipping both ways.
In my case, that would now run over $600 just to review them. Damage or factory-defect returns are free of shipping charges; it's only buyer's remorse that costs you.
This is not to dissuade you from the Monolith subwoofers, I just want to be sure you go in eyes open, rather than being surprised.
That said, the Monolith 15's have real depth of presentation and explosiveness. THX mode is too shallow for my taste, Extended mode is the bass I prefer. I'd love to hear more from Monoprice, but I hesitate to fully recommend them given the return-shipping costs, and the lack of communication. I hope that changes.
Monolith 12
(Click here to order Factory Direct)
($$) NOT VERIFIED. A 500-watt, 12" variable-ported subwoofer. Based on prior experience with the 15, this would likely miss the list in THX Mode but might belong in Extended Mode. Tentative pending a hands-on, dual-sub review.
Monolith 15
(Click Here To Order Factory Direct)
($$$) VERIFIED. A 15" driver, variable-ported subwoofer, 1,000 watts. Wouldn't make this list in THX Mode, but it does qualify in Extended Mode with all ports open. Heavy relative infrasonic bass under 20 hertz (inaudible) may be uncomfortable for some, mitigated by THX Mode, though THX Mode also reduces explosiveness. Overall a strong-performing, solid subwoofer based on depth of presentation and explosiveness, so long as you are CERTAIN about your purchase.
Outlaw
Not a direct affiliate, but was available on Amazon.
Ultra X-13 (Discontinued)
($$$$) VERIFIED. A 13" variable-ported, down-firing flagship, THX Certified. In THX mode, this sub wouldn't make the list, far too shallow in my opinion. Other EQ settings were more acceptable, though still not as deep-sounding as I prefer, the shallowest sounding subwoofer on this list. Anything shallower wouldn't qualify at all.
Its ability to hide as furniture was a genuine plus. Down-firing works fine on concrete but may not suit wood sub-floors depending on how solid they are. Isolation highly recommended for wood sub-floors; excellent for hiding as an end table, so long as the top is protected from scratches.
HSU
VTF-2
($$) NOT VERIFIED. 12" variable ported.
VTF-3
($$$) NOT VERIFIED. 15" variable ported.
VTF-15
($$$) VERIFIED (MK-1 version). 15" variable ported. Strong output, though not as deep sounding as other verified subs on this list. Shipping policy is painful, especially on returns; a reasonable option if you're in the Los Angeles area and can pick up and return in person.
I bought this sub myself before starting the site and channel, and reached to them first, BEFORE reaching out to SVS, but it never went anywhere. I haven't been able to hear a matched dual set, which is unfortunate. The VTF-15 MK-2 should be an improvement, but I couldn't say for sure.
They market themselves as an engineering company rather than a marketing company. I'd love to see them lean into marketing a little more, I'd sure like to hear more.
Rythmik
No response to outreach, but a notable mention. Can't fully recommend without hearing a set. Smaller ports are a concern due to potential port noise.
Klipsch RP Reference Premier Subwoofers
Klipsch subs have historically been a textbook example of the industry norm, shallow sounding, and generally not something I could recommend. That's just typical for the industry, not a shot at Klipsch.
I'd hoped to eventually add a brand I didn't expect to catch up, and it looks like Klipsch might be getting there. I've reached out without luck so far. While I can't fully recommend them yet, I see some promising signs. I can only vouch for what I've personally heard in my own room, but they seem to be headed in the right direction. Whether they got there yet remains to be heard.
Klipsch RP-16
Klipsch RP-12
Power Sound Audio
Industrial appearance, probably better for fully dedicated spaces rather than mixed use family rooms, good return policy, but return shipping is not free. I haven't heard them, I won't blindly recommend them, but they likely belong in the discussion. Happy to review them if they're game for it.
JTR
Another industrial type, I don't think any of these would be good for mixed use rooms, they aren't going to blend well into your living room.
I do think these systems would be great for professional audio, I'd love to hear a live concert with quality bass. Nightclubs, DJ's, etc… Haven't heard them, can't blindly recommend them, but I'd be shocked if they turned out to be shallow bass subwoofers. Outlaw surprised me, so it's really a matter of who prioritizes what, and the overall end result. I've learned not to make assumptions.
Tonewinner
I don't know if they truly have the right sound, but they are worth a mention. Same issue as most, return shipping is expensive. Kind of unknown, and some rather unique designs.
Each brand has its own character. Even the least expensive subs I fully recommend here deliver outstanding depth, clean and unobtrusive bass, movie-theater-quality impact that's easily deeper than most actual theaters. All of them improve music, otherwise I couldn't recommend them at all.
Eventually, I'd like every maker on this list to be an affiliate, so this site could become a true portal for quality subwoofers across brands, with insight on each one and what to expect. SVS and Monoprice, so far.
This list is over a decade old, with regular updates, aimed squarely at whatever specific question led you here. I genuinely want you to get the best bass you can, because it's transformative, and it's really nice to hear when I've made a positive impact.
My content is free, and I'm fearlessly objective, even when that means going against conventional wisdom. I'm not afraid of the internet audio police, I refuse to recognize their imaginary jurisdiction! Not to be a rebel, but so you know where the real world limits are and what actually matters, rather than generally accepted theories.
A Note on "Going Too Big"
Very few people will tell you it's perfectly fine to run dual PB-17 Ultra R|Evolutions in a 12'x12' room. Most will heavily advise against it, saying it would be absurd. But I've done it, just to see if that's true, in a 10'x10' room with PB-16 Ultras.
It turns out that set up correctly, using the same room correction discipline you'd need for dual PB-1000 Pro's anyway, a small room gets the same explosive benefits as a large one.
It was not overdone, it was well balanced, but it was crowded in terms of floor space. For sure, my "Distance Hack", and "Adjusting Subs by Ear Hack" made a big difference, and they should be done in any room.
At this point, it's no longer about raw output, dual PB-1000 Pro's can already get uncomfortably loud in a large room, so output was never the limiting factor. It's about the energy you're putting into the room, and the realism that comes with it: more authority, more impact.
I also put dual PB-4000's into the motorhome and the results were outstanding, far better than I expected, with the same benefits I've seen in much larger rooms, at roughly the same relative gain levels. Rather than a quick setup to see if it worked, I had the motorhome set up long term, easily hundreds of listening hours.
My listening levels (around -27 dB for music, -22 dB for movies on my Denon) barely differed from any other room I've worked with. My bass hacks let you run a lower overall volume for the same sound energy, by shifting more of the heavy lifting to the subwoofers, and that effect held true in the motorhome exactly as it does everywhere else.
I'll fully recommend what others might call absurd, as long as the result actually lines up with the advice.
Nobody NEEDS flagship subs in a small room, but nobody needs them in a large room either! It's a want, not a need.
If you want flagship subs for a small room, and everyone's telling you not to, I've done it myself, and there's nothing wrong with it. Just be precise about room correction and boundary gain, add textiles over hard surfaces, and remember the distance hack matters even more here: whatever room correction gives you for subwoofer distance, add 4 feet. It may exceed what's physically possible in your room; that's fine, it's about offsetting timing, not literal distance.
Your full experience matters to me more than any brand relationship ever will. I don't want you regretting my advice, or regretting your experience with any brand on this list. That's why I'm very upfront about the things that matter, and what you can expect.
Why Order Through My Links
Here's the short version: it costs you nothing extra, and it gets you more than not buying factory direct will.
You get the full SVS Bill of Rights. Factory-direct orders through my links come with the complete package, free shipping, free returns, a 45-day return window, and the 1-year trade-up program. Buy from a dealer or a third-party marketplace instead, and you're stuck with whatever terms that seller offers, not SVS's own guarantee.
The 1-year trade-up alone can save you hundreds down the road. Start with a pair of PB-1000 Pro's today, and a year from now you can trade up to PB-2000 Pro's, PB-3000 R|Evolutions, even the PB-17 Ultra R|Evolutions, paying only the difference and shipping each time, with the clock resetting on every trade. That's not available anywhere else other than factory direct.
Something else to note, it would make more financial sense for me to recommend 1 larger sub first, and the other when you can, because I don't see any revenue for trade ups. The right advice for you often means lost revenue for me. But the correct advice is the correct advice, regardless of my finances.
It costs you nothing. Affiliate commissions are how this entire site and channel stay running, at zero added cost to you, that's how I prefer it. You pay exactly what you'd pay going direct yourself; the only difference is that a small piece supports a one-person operation that's spent over a decade testing this stuff so you don't have to guess. I also show you how to fully optimize in ways that aren't in any instruction manual.
It keeps me honest. I'm not paid to say any of this. SVS doesn't sponsor me, doesn't script me, and I recommend competitors right alongside them whenever they earn it. Same with Monoprice. Using my links doesn't change what I tell you, it just means the recommendation helps keep the lights on here, without YouTube memberships, Patreon, or other out of pocket ways. My advice and content remain free, accessible, and independent of any influence.
I want regular, everyday people to have access to what took me decades and tens of thousands of dollars to figure out, skipping the disappointment, frustration, and headaches trying to figure it all out. Hopefully you can save a lot of money by making fewer mistakes.
If anything on this page helped you figure out which way to go, why good bass is important, or demystifying things in a way that doesn't require an audiophile translation guide, that's exactly what the links are for. Click through, buy factory direct, and get the full benefits that come with it.
Hello!
Could you please tell your opinion about svs pb-12 nsd sub.
i have this one on sale, not so far from my locatiion for 540$, and just want ton know worth it or not?
Thank you very much.
Hi Pavel, Hard to say if it’s “worth it”, I’m not sure what a new SVS would cost you with exchange rates, but it should be a decent sub if well cared for. SVS also sells used subs with full warranty and trade in benefits, just the same if it were new. https://sub101.link/SVSFactoryOutlet
Would you recommend a dual PB-10 setup at around $900 or the HSU FV15HP for $1k? I want to get very loud and deep but be musical. I play a wide variety of music and this is for a 2.1 or 2.2 setup. I will likely be using a pair of 6.5″ bookshelf speakers and my Denon 2308 AVR.
I did a videos series on this and an article! For sure, I found that 2 small “quality” subs (https://sub101.link/PB-1000-PRO affiliate link) to be superior to a large single sub, no matter the brand (SVS, HSU, etc..). Swiss Cheese Bass is something that happens with single subs: https://youtu.be/865RhwRLUM0
Any sub on this list will get you done in a dual configuration. Especially for music, duals will be better because you can hear all of the bass. I think you would like the PB-1000’s a lot, I sure did. If you wanted more, you’d have a year to upgrade at full price thanks to their https://sub101.link/Bill-Of-Rights
My favorite so far is the PB-2000, but the PB-1000’s are outstanding as well. You can see the graphs here: https://subwoofer101.com/pb-1000-vs-pb-2000/
To reinforce the point, I would make duals a priority.
hi, i have a pair of klipsch rt-10D’s they sound really good. after reading all about svs and such i am really considering a couple of pb-2000’s are you familiar at all with the klipsch and do you think it would be wise to replace them with the pb-200’s would i hear/feel the difrence or are my klipsch around the same ballpark thanks
I’m not intimately familiar with the RT-10D, but it does look to be a better than average sub, with a DSP, decent power, etc… It doesn’t look like it quite has the depth as the PB-2000 would provide, in room they go down flat to 14 hertz, while the RT12D rolls off at 22-23. Ed Mullen reviewed the RT-12D (not the 10D) in that link, and he’s the head sound expert at SVS. You can compare his in room graphs to mine, if you’ll forgive my room nulls at 72-78 hertz. The shape of the 2 graphs tells me the PB-2000’s should provide a greater overall sense of depth.
My suspicion is that the PB-2000’s would provide more impact, especially at depth. What’s nice is that the Bill of Rights will allow you to decide for yourself, with free shipping both ways if you need to return them (US and Canada). I would be curious what you thought of them in comparison. I think the isolation feet are a good idea too.
Let me know what you end up doing!
Thank you very much for your response and I will definitely let you know if I do get the svs subs. I think I have to sell my subs 1st. I’m going to think about it and maybe put them up for sale and hopefully they sell
Hi, which sub(s) would you recommend for this room layout? http://i.imgur.com/3svVBEp.png
The VTF-15H MK2 is massive, but the price/performance is great. Is there a way to get anywhere close using 2 smaller subs? (in terms of performance/price)
Thanks
Yes, and I highly recommend it. Any sub from the list should be better in a dual configuration. I did this comparison and it was definitely better. 2 vs 1 After going back to the single VTF-15 for a week, I coined the phrase “Swiss Cheese Bass”, because there just seemed to be stuff missing in random spots. Here’s the video I did on it: Swiss Cheese Bass
For sure, bass was more even, you could hear all of the bass, and there was more of a “movie theater” feeling, but deeper compared to most THX theaters.
Hello I found your site from doing research on youtube and was wondering for the setup im doing will a PB-1000 be enough.I have a Denon x2200(i think) and the pioneer Andrew Jones 5.0 floor speaker set.My room approximately 14×14 and about 10 feet from floor to ceiling.Its also worth mentioning i live in a row home and dont want to upset the neighbors too much.Ive narrowed my choice between the PB-1000 and Outlaw Ultra x12.It will be used about 85% for movies/tv shows and 15% music.My questions are Is the PB-1000 powerful enough?Is the Outlaw overkill for my small room? Which one sounds the best?Ive read and watched alot of reviews for the PB-1000 so i have a good feel of what im getting with that but it doesn’t seem to be too many reviews and no videos at all on the x12 but it is highly recommended by alot of posters over at AVS forums.If you were me which one would you get?Im sure they both will sound great considering im upgrading from the Monoprice 9774 5.1 set lol but I just want to be sure i make the right choice
Hi Jay,
Is your row home floor solid, like concrete, or is it a wood? I would say the PB-1000 is plenty and so is the Outlaw, which I haven’t heard yet. I would tend to stick with forward firing subs if your floor is not concrete, and also pick up some isolation feet. Of course the Outlaw can be turned on it’s side to be front firing, but you still want some form of isolation.
To further protect against upsetting your neighbors, try running the sub gain down and the AVR trim up. Say that you’d normally run the sub gain at 50% and AVR subwoofer trim at -3.0, instead try running the sub gain (the dial on the sub itself) at 15-25% and AVR subwoofer trim at -1.0 to +3.0 or whatever sounds right. Of course, adjust the sound to whatever sounds right to you, but what I found was that lowering the gain on the subs and compensating on the AVR still gives depth, just not as powerful dynamics, which should help with the neighbors. It’s not magical, but it might help. Nothing will allow you to play Deadmau5 at 2 am without the local PD paying you a visit. It’s good to tread carefully in shared wall situations.
That said, and as crazy as it sounds, I’d still run dual subs, and not for the output. I’ve got a video on apartments coming up.
Thanks for responding.The sub will be in my basement which is concrete with wall to wall carpet.I do plan on getting dual subs eventually but I only have around $700 to spend right now.I have kinda backed off the PB-1000 because I read it isn’t good for concrete,its lacking in mid bass,and a few people complaining about dead zones.Im thinking either the Outlaw x12,HSU VTF-2 MK5,or Rythmik LV12R.I want something with good output(any of these will most likely have good output in my small space) but sound quality is extremely important to me.
All of those subs are good, but I can’t agree with any of those problems with the PB-1000. Pretty much all of those complaints can be traced back to single subwoofer use and standing wave problems, particularly dead zones. You get “Swiss Cheese Bass” with a single sub, with random frequencies missing depending on where you sit. I can assure you that (and I’ve measured this) the PB-1000’s do not have any dead spots, rooms do. I would argue the same point for any of the subs you mentioned too, if someone said something like that about any of those. I’ve seen a lot of incomplete and misleading subwoofer reviews that can be attributed to single subwoofer use. Sound quality is extremely important to me too, and I wouldn’t recommend a bad sub.
So I talked to you a while back about upgrading my dual klipsch rt 10d’s to pb2000 and I did! Wow I thought I had some good subs considering they where $1700 MSRP at one point, but there is no comparison the SVS sound so much cleaner and the depth and punch is amazing i feel the bass now! never heard anything like it. It’s like a whole new world lol. You where right the impact is so much greater on these. So just wanted to let you know how it went thx for the comments.
Thanks so much for coming back and sharing! Glad you’re enjoying them, they are great subs!!
Hi,
I currently have the Tannoy TS2.12 500w Sub which is rated at 21hz at -6 DB.
I can’t help but feel I’m missing the sub 25hz range, don’t get me wrong it sounds good in movies and music, however sometimes at least with music I feel it lacks the depth at really low frequencies.
Looking at the PB1000 it’s rated at 19hz -/+3db
Do you think I’ll get a noticeable bump in loudness at 20hz vs my current Sub? Unfortunately the 2000’s are out of my budget, due to my accommodation I think a 500w Sub is far too much unless I want to get the neighbours angry lol.
Would appreciate your advice.
Thanks
I don’t think your feelings are unfounded, most subs get quieter as they go deeper. I think any rating at -6 db is a red flag. See the graphs on this page, PB-1000 vs PB-2000. In short, I’m sure the difference will be undeniable. Go dual when you can, it will be even better. Watch for my apartment video coming up…
Thank you for getting back to me, I have ordered the PB-1000, will be interesting to see the differences, got a week wait unfortunately. Will post back after I’ve done some testing.
Thanks again.
Have you any experience with the Definitive Technology Super Cube 4000, 6000, and 8000. If so how would any of those stack up with the SVS pb1000 and 2000 or even the SVS sb 1000 and 2000.
I owned the Supercube 2000 briefly and returned it, it was the last “regular” sub I owned. It had decent output for the size, but it doesn’t belong on “The List” since my biggest issue was lack of depth. It got quieter as it went lower under 30-35 hertz, which is pretty typical, and the main reason for starting this site. The SVS subs easily dominate under 40 hertz, and have a flatter response overall.
What are your thoughts on the sb13-ultra compared to the pb13-ultra and the pb16-ultra vs sb16-ultra? I always hear the SB is tighter bass but the PB is louder. I already own the sb13 and am thinking about upgrading to either an sb16 or pb16. I listen to mostly movies but enjoy music from time to time. My room is 23’x20′. I’m just lost on the decision. Even though return shipping is free you know it’s not practical because of the size and wieght of these devices. I want to make a single decision and want it to be the right one. Thanks!
Ported are generally better for movies, as they have more oomph down low, but I also like them for music, which is uncommon for sure (most prefer sealed subs for music). The question is whether you plan to go dual or not. I’d go dual PB-12 Plus over a single PB-16 Ultra, as awesome as it is. Here are my thoughts on Ported vs Sealed. I consider duals to be vital for proper bass.
What about an sb16-ultra paired with my existing SB-13 ultra? Would the differences between the two models cause issues with the sound? What do you think?
I don’t have any experience with the Ultra sealed subs yet, so I checked with Ed Mullen at SVS to get his take.
Per Ed: The two models have similar group delay curves so integration shouldn’t be too much of a challenge.
Just picked up an Onkyo 9700 THX HTIB about a month ago and so far I am very happy with my purchase, tested it after a month of babying it with Tron Legacy and John Wick but the sub seems to be a weak link. I do listen to music with the setup also. I’ve been researching SVS and am thinking the 16 Ultras will be massive overkill. In your opinion what would you recommend? SB2000, PB2000, PB12 Plus or PB13 Ultra
It depends on your budget and what you want to do. Whatever subwoofer you go with, you’ll want 2 of them, so it’s best to split your bass budget to do so. Dual PB-2000’s are the best bang for the buck, and as you go up in price you get more realism, headroom, and raw power. I LOVE the PB-16 Ultra, but if I could only afford one, I’d go with 2 PB-12 Plus instead for about the same money. The PB-2000’s are the simplest, pretty much plug and play, where the Plus and Ultra series offer a lot of adjust-ability, but that also means you need to pay attention a bit more. Not a bad thing, you can really customize the sound.
Any of these will scale nicely, and your Onkyo speakers would start to struggle before these subs ever broke a sweat, but if you set the crossover at 80-120 hertz you should be in good shape and it should be plenty loud. If you stick with your setup, no problem, bass will never be an issue so long as you aren’t totally insane. If you decide to drop $5,000+ on AVR’s and speakers, they’ll handle that beautifully too. Good bass is funny like that.
I think a pair of PB-2000’s would make your jaw drop, and maybe even cause you to giggle. If you think you need more, you can always take advantage of the 1 year trade up policy. Some might tell you that would be overkill with your setup, but I have no such reservations. If you really like cranking it up, but the AVR or speakers begin to struggle, bump the crossover up a bit more (always keep the speakers set to “Small” BTW) which transfers more of the power load to the subwoofers. Your AVR probably sets your speakers at 60-80 after room correction, but you can run them as high as 150-200 hertz if you want. I like mine at 90 hertz, even with towers that can drop to 32 hertz. Hope that helps!
hey.I im thinking about buying SVS pb 2000 for 600 dollars or the JL Audio Fathom f-110 for 1,000 dolllar, who do you thing plays the best.thank you for all anwsers
See my Ported VS Sealed write up for whether you’d prefer sealed or ported. I will say the PB-2000 would make it less expensive to go dual down the road, something I consider vital, and you don’t want to mix subs. Sometimes you can find a PB-2000 in the factory outlet, which have all of the same policies as brand new, including full warranty, return policy, and free shipping.
I noticed M&K subs didn’t make your list. I have an MX350. I was just wondering what your thoughts were on the brand and how you think they stack up against some of your other suggestions. I have an older 5.1 system using B&W speakers. My mains are DM604 S2s. I’ve been very happy with the combination but always open to suggestions on ways to improve the setup.
Looking at the M&K line, it has some features I’d be interested in exploring, but one thing that concerns me is price. It’s conceivable that with room gain, the response could be flatter in room than the graphs I’ve seen would indicate. I have not tried the push pull design in a home theater environment, so I don’t really know how it would translate, or how it impacts room gain compared to ported and sealed subs, which react a little differently.
That said, I’m not seeing the typical earmarks I look for when hunting for subwoofers to add to the list (DSP, published graphs, etc…). Maybe you could help me out? There are some sound tests on YouTube, which have a sweep from 150-10 hertz, or some variation, dipping down into the teens. A great subwoofer in my opinion will be as loud or louder at 20-25 hertz as it is around 50-60 hertz. You can download an SPL meter app to check what your output is at 50-60 hertz vs 20-25 hertz. I’d be curious what you find. Even without the app, you can usually tell whether it trails off or not.
Most subwoofers get quieter once they reach under 30-40 hertz. The subs I like, in contrast, get a touch louder as they go deeper. The deep tones should be undeniable and clearly distinguishable, and most subs fall short in my opinion. Just making noise at 20-25 hertz does not count to me, I want REAL output, and a lot of people have never really heard true depth like that in their home theater. I can hear down to 17 hertz, and most subs on this list will deliver beyond that in their “in-room” response. I’m a big proponent of dual subwoofers. It appears that dual PB-2000’s would cost less than a single MX350. The PB-2000’s go down to 14 hertz in my room before they start to get quieter, according to the measurements I’ve taken.
I don’t know how the MX350 will do under 30 hertz, so I can’t say for sure that the PB-2000’s would outperform them at depth, but the chances are pretty good unless the MX350 bucks the usual trend. If it had DSP, the chances of bucking that trend would be better. There’s a reason the list is so short, a ported sub rarely has any real output down to 20 hertz, and doing it with composure and authority is even more rare. Again, not being super familiar with the push/pull design personally is the one thing that has me unsure.
If you can, please let me know how that sub does with those listening tests. If it starts to trail off and get quieter as it goes deeper, it’s much like 95% of subwoofers out there. If it sounds really impressive and powerful to you under 30 hertz, I’ll want to take a closer look. I wasn’t aware of M&K until I saw your comment, and if they belong on the list, I’ll definitely add them.
Hi, I’ve been reading your articles and watching your YouTube videos for a couple of months now (great info!), and I’m hoping you can steer me in the right direction.
I have a dedicated 2nd floor theater, 15ftx18ft, with a 10 ft ceiling and set up in a 5.2.2 Atmos config (Pioneer VSX-1131 AVR). I’m currently using two old Sony subs (sa-wm40 and sa-wm500), that I’ve been wanting to replace as soon as time/budget allowed. One sub is located along the back wall, and the other is along a side wall. I listen to 80% movies/tv and 20% music.
I’ve had my eye on either a PB-1000, PC-2000 or a HSU VFT2-MK5 for awhile now, but I’m not sure which would provide that “feel it in your clothes” bass that I enjoy at my local cinema.
I have a local store that is an authorized SVS dealer, so I’m leaning toward one of the SVS’s but the HSU’s price/performance is also enticing. What would you suggest?
Wow, sorry this went so long unanswered. Not sure how I missed it. The higher the RMS wattage, the more you will feel it in general, even at the same volume. I’d also stick with forward facing subs, wood subfloors are a little challenging with down firing subs. With wood subfloors, I would also get isolation whichever way you go. Any of those subs should provide what you’re looking for, arguably better than the theater.
With SVS, going through a dealer is OK, but the Bill of Rights may not fully apply. As an affiliate, going through my links ensures factory direct benefits. I know a lot of people were upset because they bought PB-13 Ultras through dealers, and weren’t able to upgrade to the PB-16 Ultra under the 1 year trade up program.
Going factory direct ensures benefits like the 1 year trade up. Visit SVS and look up their Bill of Rights. If you’re unsure whether your dealer has full Bill of Rights support, call or chat with SVS to be sure. My understanding is that it can vary. Emailing them would eliminate any confusion regarding your particular store.
Again, I’m sorry it took so long to respond!
How do you feel about a ML Dynamo 1000?
I prefer ported subs to begin with, as I find them more comfortable to listen to. The ported subs on this list would have a lot more power under 40 hertz, it’s a more impressive experience. If this list were to include sealed subs, I’d look for subs with a deeper presentation. Even within this list, some subs have a deeper presentation than others. Even though 2 different subs will reach 14 hertz in room, 1 can have a deeper and more powerful presentation overall. Hard to find a specification that will truly nail that down, but graph shape is a good indicator.
Hello
I was looking at getting dual outlaw m8 any opinions on that my room is 11.5 x 16 feet
While I have no doubt the Outlaw M8 is a good subwoofer for it’s size, it wouldn’t make the list like the other 2 Outlaw subs do. Just not deep enough. A sub must be able to hit 20 hertz with authority to make this list. You’re definitely on the right track with duals though. The extra money spent on dual subs from this list would be noticeable over the M8.
Hello Ryan,
I find the reviews and comment interesting but as a new-bie to all this audio technology for a good sub-woofer, I have a question that I didn’t see asked from many of the posting I have read. Why should someone buy a sub-woofer that’s 300 watts or higher when most AV receivers are built to send audio powered at 90 – 150 watts per channel at 8 ohms?
I am putting together a new home theatre setup with a Denon X6300h receiver using Polk RTiA9 fronts powered by a Marantz 7025 amp and all the Polk speakers to match. I am torn between the PB2000’s and The PB12 plus. Room will be about 24×17.
I use single 12 but I added bass shakers to each end of my couch. Makes a huge difference. Even sitting in the chair next to couch, you get the rumble affect. Highly recommend this for movies.
I have not tried bass shakers yet. Regardless, another matching sub would improve the sound. See my video on the importance of dual subwoofers. If it’s a “regular” sub, you would notice a dramatic difference with something from this list.
I like the benefits of more power, and in a larger room it’s better to have more than you need. If you can swing it, the PB-12 Plus would the way to go, so long as you go dual. More “traction” in the bass, with realism and authority. If it’s no trouble, please follow this link before you order!
Great question!! Active subwoofers like these have their own amplification. So you could run something as awesome as dual PB-16 Ultras using a fairly low powered AVR, so long as it has RCA subwoofer outputs. Bass requires the most power, so it’s completely fine if it seems a little “lopsided”.
Most AVR’s are only rated at 2 channels driven, and the more channels are driven, the more watered down it gets. My Denon X-2000 is only rated for 95 watts per channel, and that gets divided up to be considerably less than 95 watts per channel when spread out over 5-7 channels.
Running a higher crossover on the AVR, (at least 80 hertz) and setting the speakers to “Small” (even if they are huge!) takes the load off of the AVR and transfers the “hard work” to the subwoofer(s) amplifier.
I ran the Denon X-2000 with the PB-16 Ultras and it did great. The newer AVR, the Denon X6200, does better, but part of that has to do with the processing and the additional channels. As far as the bass goes, the lower powered X-2000 was able to control the dual PB-16 Ultras just fine. I just had to use an RCA splitter since it doesn’t have dual subwoofer outputs.
If you want to learn more about the crossover settings, check this out.
Let me know if that helps!
Hi Ryan
I leaning toward dual PC12 plus for both space and aesthetics but I notice in your list you mention that the down firing subs may not be so good for wood subfloors which I have. If I get the foam isolation feet does that fix the issues with wood subfloor or do you recco only front firing for wood subfloor regardless of isolation?
Thanks,
John
Any thoughts on the closed SVS models, like the SB-1000? Is it comparable to the ported model, or should it be avoided? I am looking at one on auction, and they seem to be going quite cheap. 1000 or 2000 dollars is still quite a lot of money…
After reading some more of your articles, i found the one on ported vs seales subs, so that kind of answered my question – ported apparently gives more “oomph” and is easier on the ears.
That’s been my experience! Sorry I’m slow in replying!
I see you found it, but for those who might have the same question: Ported VS Sealed subwoofers
Any thoughts on the monoprice monolith subwoofers specs look good I was looking at the 10 they are thx certified or would I be better off with svs pb 1000
I own a M&K v125 sealed sub and you are right it drops off at about 28hz
Yeah, it’s pretty common. Some sealed subs can reach low, but don’t have a lot of output at depth. I really enjoy ported subs, but typical ported subs can be even worse. Very few subs go deep enough for my liking.
I’m very interested in the Monolith series. I’m not sure the THX certification is something I would specifically pursue myself, my own requirements might exceed/differ from what they require.
That said, the THX rated X13 is on The List, though I much preferred the deeper EQ setting rather than the THX setting. The Monoliths certainly have more promise than most, but they won’t make The List until I have some seat time with them, and can put a microphone on them. A subwoofer can have all of the earmarks of a good sub and still not measure up.
I Love your site, and I’m grateful for your insite. I have a problem.
I love awesome bass and I have purchased subs that reflect that love. I’m running a dual sub set-up with VTF-3 MK4s. The issue is knowing how to complement that bass setup with correct front and center speakers. Should I be looking for large footprint, high end speakers like Klipsch that have dual 8 inch woofers, or looking for upper register speakers with better clarity in the mid to high range? Do you have suggestions on brand?
Hi there, appreciate your reviews and opinions here – you helped me go to a dual PB-1000 and then a dual PB-2000 setup.
I’m wondering what your thoughts are on PSA’s subs, as I don’t see them on your list.
Thanks! They are subs I’d be interested in hearing. I want to hear subs before I add more to the list.
Thanks! Wow, sorry I missed this comment! Speakers are more of a personal thing. Towers do add support to the bass even when set to “Small” and 80 hertz crossover, so there is value there. I listen to a lot of SVS products, a perk of being their first affiliate, and have been more focused on subs vs the mains, but their speakers are very well reviewed, most people love them.
The Ultra Towers are REALLY nice, I can see where the money went vs their Prime Tower and Ultra Bookshelf, which are great for the money. The dual 6.5 mid-range in the Ultra Towers provide great clarity, and the dual opposing 8″ woofers basically negate the need for my Distance Hack. Here’s an article about how Smith Freeman designs speakers: Designing Prime Speakers
Going with bookshelf speakers doesn’t mean you won’t have good bass, but I would run a higher crossover. With dual VTF-3’s that shouldn’t be a problem.
As for other brands, Sonus Faber is probably worth looking at. Others as well I’m sure, I haven’t heard the higher end Klipsch, so I couldn’t say, but they are popular. Again, speakers are so subjective to taste that you just have to find what’s right for you. Some people like horns, some like their electrostats, it’s all taste. Subwoofers are more concrete and measurable, which is more in my lane.
Thanks for your help!
I currently have the Def Tech Supercube 2000 and I want to go dual. I can get another one for around $300. Will it be worth it to sell the Supercube to upgrade to another pair of subs? I would need something similar in size (they could be slightly larger) and around $1000 for the pair. Is there anything out there that isn’t more ir less a lateral move?
The Def Tech SC-2000 happens to be the last “regular” subwoofer I owned. I’ve never looked back, the difference is undeniable. Dual PB-1000’s would be your best bet, but even though they are the smallest on this list, they will be larger than you’re used to. Well worth the size difference, in my opinion.
It will only be a lateral move in terms of price, in terms of performance, you’d notice a substantial difference. If you go factory direct, you have a year to upgrade, and the PB-2000’s are a nice sweet spot. Here’s details on the 1 year trade up: Bill Of Rights
Just be forewarned, a lot of people make the leap to the higher end subs (4000 series, 16 Ultra) within their 1 year upgrade period, it can be an addiction. But the subs on this list are all truly subs I’d be happy with long term, and that definitely includes the PB-1000’s. They definitely have the chops!
Hi Ryan, thanks for all your videos. I am learning from them. I have the following setup Q-Acoustics 7000i Plus 5.1 (3070S Subwoofer) with Denon AVR-X540BT. I am also planning for dual sub woofer after watching your videos. What specifications should i look for the other one ?
or should go with another 3070S ?
As stated before, my room is equipped with the Def Tech sc2000. I recently paired that with an 8″ Energy sub that was collecting dust. Even though they are two different subs, going dual was still a big step up. Now I’m ready (financially) to upgrade. I need something of similar size. I’m strongly considering the SB-2000’s. I see they’re not on the list so I was wondering what your opinion was on the SVS’s. I looked at a few test benches and one showed them reading at a 85db level at 20hz. Another was showing 92db. Will I realistically be able to feel 20hz with these?
I apologize for not getting back sooner, summer heat has really slowed me down. You don’t see the SB-2000’s on my list because I wouldn’t buy them myself. Not that they aren’t great subs, but I found out that I have an aversion to sealed subs, as they create an uncomfortable pressure sensation that only some people experience. Unfortunate for me, but something to consider for those with sensitive ears.
That said, the ported version (PB-2000) is a lot more dynamic and powerful sounding, as sealed are not as efficient. Even the PB-1000’s outperformed the more powerful SB-2000’s in my view. If you’re looking for small, the PB-1000 is the smallest sub I can recommend, though still not “small” in the traditional sense. You would be able to feel 20 hertz with the SB-2000’s, however it will me more impressive with the PB-1000’s and more so with the PB-2000’s. The PB-2000’s are kind of my “Goldielocks” subs. The PB-1000’s are right there too, but the PB-2000’s are worth the extra cash in my opinion.
Sorry for taking so long to respond. Summertime slows me down and I’m playing catch up. A starter system I would recommend is the 5 Prime Satellites and Dual PB-1000’s. I would also recommend getting it through the system builder, which gives you a discount for 5+ items. I suspect that would give you a fairly dramatic improvement. Here’s the link to the system builder: System Builder
Somehow I missed this comment, sorry about that!
Isolation helps, but I find it better to go with front firing if you can. I would run down firing on wood if it was a space issue though, it’s not a “must avoid” type of thing, just something to consider. I’m putting a legit theater in an RV, and I may do down firing despite the wood subfloor, as floor space is a premium in an RV. That said, I’m running PB-2000’s in there now and love it. PB-4000’s wouldn’t fit though, so PC-4000’s might end up in there for the added firepower. The goal is a ridiculous experience I can share with people I meet. It’s getting there!
Again, sorry for missing your comment!!
Thanks Ryan for replying. Actually I already had brought the Q Acoustics 7000 I Plus and then saw your videos and eventually bought one more sub Q Acoustics 3070 to match it. With dual sub it is awesome 🙂 Ryan anything that you could suggest with regards to 3 subwoofers, have one extra one with me. How to place them and would the improve it. I know it is not that straightforward 🙂 Something atleast from the placement perspective. Thanks again Ryan 🙂
If it’s a matching subwoofer, then I would probably daisy chain them using splitters, that way they are all getting the exact same signal. Then, I would try to have them equidistant to the main listening position but separated, if possible. Then run room correction again if you have it, and try the “Distance Hack” from my bass hack videos.
If the sub is not matching, you can try it, but sometimes mismatched subs can cause some cancellations. In that case, it’s a “try and see” situation, and it’s best to “see” with Room EQ Wizard to measure the response. If it’s NOT a matching sub, you might get more by leaving it out.
***Update***
Still have the THX Onkyo Receiver and speakers for now. Picked up an SVS SB16 Ultra in February through the Outlet and really can’t say enough about this beast of a Subwoofer. Eventually going to run duels for more balance and hopefully get rid of the null where I sit. And going to upgrade to all SVS Ultra speakers when funds allow. Keep up the great videos and reviews.
Always appreciate updates like this! The additional sub will allow you to hear all of the bass, and check out the distance hack which can help you remove a few more cancellations. The Ultra speaker line is really nice, I think you’ll enjoy them! The Ultra Towers are outstanding, but they are the one SVS speaker that doesn’t need as much distance variation. All other SVS speakers do great when you add 3-4 feet to the subwoofer after room correction. The Ultra Towers do best with only 0-1 foot added to the sub distance after room correction. They add more to the bass than I expected, and the dual 6.5 mid-ranges are awesome.
I stumbled across your website just now unfortunately after I ordered a single PC4000. Having read all of your comments it seems pretty apparent that because I have a very pliable wood subfloor (specifically built so that it is decoupled from the house — the floor plate sits on two beads of rubber that circle the perimeter of the room; everything was framed around that) I should have ordered the PB version, and also that I should have ordered two. But I wonder too — how about if I double down on isolation with the PC? Would that be of benefit? Also, my room isn’t all that big (12 x 22 x 7.5) and it’s filled with five large recliners on two levels. We rarely have more than 2 people at any given time in the theater, so do I really NEED to worry about bass consistency across the entire seating zone if I can get the sweet spot on the front two seats?
Also, I use this theater space exclusively for film playback; nothing else.
A couple of points. The PC-4000 is a heavier subwoofer, and the more weight, the less of an issue the floor tends to be. Isolation will help too. Some people do like the effect of a noisy floor, so that’s another consideration. It’s a case by case thing, but your floor will affect the sound, you just need to determine if it’s good or bad. The PC-4000 can also be laid on it’s side.
As far as duals go, if I was the only person to ever hear it, I would still want duals. It’s hard to explain, but even if you manage to get a perfectly “flat” response curve with a single sub, you still get Swiss Cheese Bass, where parts of the bass just seem absent. Duals cause the longer bass sound waves to interlace, creating a much more desirable, clean, and authoritative response. Feels more like what you would get at a commercial movie theater (because they almost always run multiple subwoofers), just MUCH deeper with SVS subs. I consider the seat to seat benefit secondary, it’s nice, but my motivation is how it sounds to me.
I also find duals more comfortable. With a single, one ear always seems to have a weird pressure difference, but with dual ported subs it’s nice and comfortable. The corrections needed to get a flat response with a single sub are not ideal, so perhaps that’s what causes the pressure sensation.
I’m also building out an RV to have a deploy-able home theater so more people can hear it. I have dual PB-4000’s in there right now. For me, the only time room size is an issue is in MASSIVE rooms. With small rooms, you will have small room challenges regardless, but duals are still necessary in my opinion, perhaps even more important in small rooms. It’s not about loudness. While dual PB-1000’s would get the job done, the higher the wattage in the SVS line, the better the realism and impact at the same levels. Space is a premium in an RV, but dual subs were an ABSOLUTE design requirement. If I couldn’t run big dual subs, the project wasn’t worth doing.
The RV Project as of now.
Surprised that JTR isn’t there
They probably could be, but I’d need to hear them first. They have a great reputation, but I’ve learned that hearing them in person means everything. I’ve heard subs that SHOULD have been amazing, but left me unimpressed. Not that I expect that from JTR, I just know better than to add subs before hearing them.
I have 3 pb1000s . Two on the front stage and one behind the seating. I was thinking of upgrading the rear to a pb2000? Will I notice a difference or would I need a pb3000 or is it a bad idea to mix different size subs?
I wouldn’t mix, it’s better to stick with a single model of subwoofer. Dual PB-3000’s are outstanding.
First, thanks for all of your videos, etc. I have learned a lot. In the end, because of my love for two-channel music above all else, I went with dual SVS SB-3000 subs … and I could not be happier. Especially after a good month of owning them, they just have opened up tremendously. I can NEVER tell WHERE they are in the room, whether playing music or enjoying home theatre. They just fill my room with glorious, ubiquitous, musical and heart-thumping bass! They bring a realism to ALL of my audio and video enjoyment.
Thank you!
Always love a good success story! Thanks for the feedback!
I have a 20′ x 30′ room that opens to the kitchen. Do you think dual sb-3000 would work? Kinda concerned about 13″ drivers.
I wouldn’t be too concerned about driver size, the PB-3000 can embarrass plenty of 15″ subs, true for the 10″ PB-1000 as well. What matters is the design as a whole. These subs are audibly bottomless, and very explosive. Whole different ballgame.
I’m more inclined to run ported over sealed, they tend to have more slam in the bottom end, more comfortable for sensitive ears (I had a head injury from 18 years ago that still causes light and sound sensitivity- I can’t tolerate sealed), and the notion that ported subs don’t sounds clean comes from bad subs, and good subs run as a single. As dual, the sound is nice and tight, at least for subs here on the list. For a comparable price, the New “PB-2000 Pro” as duals would probably blow your mind. I know dual PB-3000’s would for sure.
That said, if you prefer sealed, the SB-3000’s will do the job without breaking a sweat.
Hi subwoofer 101.
Is the ”new” PB 2000 Pro not good enough for the list?
I run duals
Definitely!! I’m in the process of updating the list. Excellent subwoofer, one of my top 3, and top choice in it’s price point.
I have the Hsu V15 MK2 and am sorry you’re not getting the support to audition duals. They really are good, and better than the MK1.
I’m pretty much certain that the MK2 is better, I believe you. I’d love to evaluate their subs, but I’ve come out of pocket to review subs from another brand, and it hasn’t worked out. There’s such a small number of true “deep bass” subwoofers that it paints me into a corner.
I just love how in-depth you get here! Good stuff!
Thanks, I appreciate it!